Friday, August 17, 2007

Laguna to Portland

I've finally made it to Portland. It took a lot longer than anyone trying to get here fast should take. Here's the explanation: I realized I would have missed some of the most beautiful coastline in California and Oregon. I couldn't bear it. So after staying at Susan and Darrien's in Brentwood (thanks guys!), I stopped in Berkeley then over the (Bay) bridge and thru the woods to the beginning of an endless stretch of sparsely populated and largely untouched coastal paradise.

Getting out of the Bay Area took a long time, so after hitting HWY 1, I stopped in one of the first camps on the Sonoma County Coast: Bodega Bay. The camp and RV area was out on a thin peninsula/jetty built into the bay, and I took a spot about as far toward the tip as possible. It was a little cramped with RV upon RV, but I slept like a champ. I awoke early to a world of mist. The fog coming into the bay was so thick and heavy, it coated everything. I had a jog, a shower, and some oatmeal and feeling good, hit the road.

I zipped through towns like Jenner, Fort Ross and Sea Ranch. Then in Mendocino County, Gualala, Little River and Fort Bragg (bad name, nice town). This is the kind of coastal drive that reminds a Southern Californian of Big Sur, if that's as far north you've made it. The difference is that this is Big Sur times 100, plus a big dose of mellow, minus the weird local vibe. From what I can tell, Big Sur locals have insulated their Real, Hidden Big Sur from the throngs of touristas from So Cal and the Central Valley. Can't blame them, but there's a wall.

Anyhoos, as I crossed the Oregon Border, there was a palpable change in landscape and even the weather. The coastline suddenly seemed more wild and rugged, as if the people in charge of state-border-lines saw this natural division and said, "This is it!" The clouds rolled in and the huge boulders off shore made it hard to keep my eyes on the road. They look like ancient totems, or some kinda Stonehenge built by giants.

I passed the gorgeous Gold Beach, but it was getting late, so I pulled into Arizona Beach camp for the night. This was an awesome spot. It's a long cove with a rain forest on one end of it. The tent sites are these little nooks carved out of the tall thickets facing the ocean. Incredible.

Dinner was canned corned beef (tasted like what you imagine canned corned beef would taste like), a carrot and a little red wine. A light rain started right after I climbed into my truck bed. I was actually surprised the rain hadn't come sooner.

I got up at the crack of dawn and headed to Portland. More on that later...

Some pics:

The campus at UC Berkeley.

On Hwy 1, Sonoma County

Black Point Beach near Sea Ranch.

Looks nice right?

WRONG! It will kill you.

Inland from the lawless "Lost Coast" or "Gold Coast" or "Where they grow lots of pot in the forest".



Crescent City, CA

Right passed the Oregon Border.

Arizona Beach
My camp nook

1 comment:

Jessica "Kai-Chi" said...

Rock on, Parke! Please have safe travels, wish we could be as daring as you and explore like a nomad. We will all follow your journey to Alaska closely. Don't eat TOO much of the canned corned beef, ya hear?!?! xoxox from the Chensies and the girls